Restaurants

You dream of (but rarely get) places like this in provincial France. The Passage is a tiny finger of a venue with hardly room for 20 diners – though there’s a few tables outside. Within, furniture is caff-style, but deep-orange and white walls, wooden flooring and Gallic paintings give a bistro feel. At the rear is a minuscule kitchen, where a clued-up, friendly duo work wonders. There’s a menu of savoury and sweet crêpes, an à la carte featuring the likes of bouillabaisse followed by salt-cod with potatoes, egg and hollandaise (£10), and a list of keenly priced specials. From the latter we were treated to luxuriously thick cream of white-asparagus and leek soup (well worth £3.50; garnished with parsley and a twirl of olive oil), then a (barely) baked salmon fillet with chunky sautéed potatoes and a crisp rocket salad (just £6.50). Our only criticism: some bland sliced apples in the otherwise exemplary crêpe normande (flambéed with a sizeable slug of calvados) – though we did eat in apple-impoverished July. Attractive dish presentation and a list of Belgian beers, cidres bouchées and interesting wines, juices and teas further heightened our admiration. High-quality brasserie food at caff prices.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009