Restaurants

The main draw at this revamped Victorian pub near Lambeth Walk is its range of German beers – 30 and counting. While most are bottled, those on draught range from aromatic weiss (white) beers through light styles such as pilseners to darker, hoppier brews. Bar snacks include Landjäger (dried beef and pork sausage), Frikadelle (meatballs), and wholegrain bread with ham or cheese. At lunchtimes, drop by for sandwiches, soup and grilled sausages served with potato salad. Popular dishes from north and south Germany feature on the dinner menu, which tends towards homely comfort cooking. Himmel und Äd (heaven and earth: cloud-like whipped potatoes with moist black pudding and baked apple), Schweinebraten in Biersosse (roast pork in dark beer sauce with plump bread dumplings and red cabbage), Goulasch mit Semmelknödeln (beef stew with bread dumplings), all cost less than a tenner, and there are also schnitzels in various permutations. Black nightclub-style decor and two wide-screen televisions showing football are hardly spirit of the age, and suggest the owners are a little unsure of their clientele. But with its inexpensive, warming grub and terrific beers, this venture is unexpected and welcome in Vauxhall.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009