Restaurants

By day, this is an old-school Italian eaterie on a baronial scale, decorated by incongruous jazz-themed murals. At weekends, it transforms into a Romanian party venue, with a band, a singer belting out Romanian ballads, and young couples dancing in strict tempo. Later a DJ spins more modern sounds. The place is a magnet for London’s young Romanians. On our visit, tables began to fill at around 11pm, mainly with chaps in their twenties. Women (in über-tight microminis) were in short supply. The welcoming staff were happy to guide our choices. A light, fruity village-style red wine, brought by barrel from Romania, slipped down beautifully. Start a meal with one of the chunky soups (ciorba), which come in meatball, chicken, beef or tripe (good for a hangover) versions. Alternatively, try the cascaval pane (fried cheese in breadcrumbs). Meat main courses arrive with piles of potatoes or mamaliga (polenta) accompanied by sour cream and cheese. Mititei (skinless minced pork, lamb and garlic sausages) and garlicky pork tenderloin stuffed with slanina (bacon fat) were simple but tasty. End with a creamy gateau or rum baba from the fabulously retro sweet trolley. A fun, if unusual, experience.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009