Restaurants

Despite occupying a windowless basement, this ambitious new restaurant creates the right vibe through savvy decor, charming service and excellent cooking. The small dining room is covered in bamboo, with two huge murals providing eternal sunsets. Barman and waitresses give a warm greeting, and the former can produce a perfect rum punch. Soul music completes the impression of a chilled tropical refuge. The starter platter is a brilliant way to sample the cooking. You get crispy king prawns doused in coconut, hot jerk chicken wings, rounds of plantain and callaloo, and saltfish fritters; it’s just £8.50 for two people. The mains menu comprises Caribbean classics – more jerk chicken, fish stew, fried chicken – plus steak. Mutton curry with rice and peas was delicious: the meat moist but lightly browned, with a deep sheepish flavour. Creole fish stew also verged on the sublime, the bream marinated in a subtly spiced, slightly buttery sauce. While side dishes are not necessary, our macaroni cheese was fluffy and light. The house white was excellent too. To finish, guava cheesecake was great, though crème brûlée lacked texture. At weekends this place is packed; midweek it deserves to be full.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009