Restaurants

Whether you’re looking at the art or just the river views, Tate Modern’s Level 2 eaterie is a fantastic place for a quick bite or a longer lunch. Glass walls on three sides give the bustling space a wonderfully light feel, enjoyed by everyone from sharp-looking graphic designers, to retirees relishing their freedom and frazzled families with hungry toddlers to appease. Admirably, kids aren’t treated with condescension; child-sized portions of all the main dishes are available. This is first-rate food, from a starter of leeks vinaigrette topped with an oozing poached egg, to the day’s catch fresh off Cornish fishing boats. On a recent occasion the fish was a splendid piece of pollack on white bean purée with cherry tomatoes and aubergine. The changing menu incorporates seasonal British ingredients as well as more international flavours. Shropshire fidget pie filled with bacon and apples is listed alongside dressed Dorset crab and an Iberian meat plate with catalan tomato bread. The puddings display confident sophistication without being too flashy; rhubarb compote and custard was prettily layered in a tumbler. Breakfast options include mushrooms on toast with spinach and fried duck egg, and Sillfield Farm treacle-cured bacon sarnies. Service is efficient and accommodating, too. Overall, this is an unpretentious, deftly executed gallery café.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009