Restaurants

A meal here is more likely to be memorable for the location than the food – a shame as a more inspired menu combined with the headquarters of the Royal Institute of British Architects would make a stunning destination. The airy, high-ceilinged, first-floor hall that the restaurant occupies boasts intricately carved stone pillars, a central exhibition space and smart, plant-dotted outdoor terrace. Suited diners take advantage of the 45-minute express lunch, while less stuffy patrons choose from a shorter menu available in the area just outside the main restaurant (by the grand stairs leading down to the ground floor). The menu included, on our visit, steak sandwich, confit duck and blood orange salad, and wild mushroom filo tart. Sensitively cooked halibut on orzo pasta came with mussels instead of cockles as listed, but was none the worse for it. Smoked tofu salad with pickled ginger and yoghurt dressing, on the other hand, didn’t have much foil for the strong-tasting root and was left mostly uneaten. The crisply dressed waiters are stiff and proper.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009