Restaurants

The grand, Grade I-listed Royal Exchange has always been a temple to London’s wealth – so its modern reinvention, as a luxury boutique-lined shopping precinct with a smart brasserie at its centre, is perfectly apt. In the soaring atrium, tables cluster around a gleaming bar and seafood counter, manned by scurrying waiters. For a quieter table overlooking the action, head for the first-floor gallery. Serving food all day, it’s most atmospheric at lunchtime, as bankers strike deals over lobster sandwiches and steaks, and shoppers stop for champagne and oysters. In the evening, after a post-work peak, it quietens down – and without the buzz, loses some lustre. On our last visit, hurried, perfunctory service and constant wine refills made for a less than relaxing evening. A dropped langoustine was retrieved from the floor then returned to our table. Mains arrived as we were midway through our starters, then were left to cool on a nearby table. The food itself was also hit and miss; pork belly with lentils packed a flavourful punch, but plump salmon fish cakes were bland. Safer, perhaps, to stick to the upmarket bar snacks and chunky, fluffy-centred chips.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009