Restaurants

Ranoush, part of the Maroush empire, has been squeezing juices and churning out shawarmas for decades. Behind the busy counter where the juice-squeezers and shawarma-makers toil, a modest selection of meze is displayed. Many dishes here, like falafel, can also be wrapped in shami bread – along with pickles and garlicky tahini sauce – to take away. Or you can order your food ‘on a plate’ and eat at one of the café’s marble-topped tables or at the counter facing the mirrored wall. We were impressed with our plateful recently. It may have been fast food, but everything was very carefully garnished and well presented. While some of the dishes didn’t have the finesse you might expect of the pricey Maroushes down the road, flavours were big and bold. Batata hara contained big chunks of pepper, and slices of garlic the size of 1p pieces; falafel were crunchy and spicy; tabouleh arrived a little coarsely chopped, but with a lively citrussy zing. With a generous pile of warmed bread, this all made an honest, satisfying lunch. A great place to call in, day or night (and it’s open until the small hours): just don’t expect peace and quiet.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009