Restaurants

A Lebanese outpost in previously uncharted Borough High Street, Hiba has stylish, retro furnishings of olive-green and brown. The look may not be classic Lebanese, but the food is. All the favourite meze are here, though a couple of details are absent: warmed pitta was served rather than puffed-up Lebanese bread; and the traditional bowl of fresh salad vegetables was missing. Small points perhaps, but they hindered our enjoyment of an otherwise superb spread. Houmous beiruty was dense and luscious, with a touch of chilli adding an extra dimension; falafel were perfect (crunchy on the outside, soft inside and warmly spiced with cumin); samak harra (little pieces of fish in a hot tomato and chilli sauce) packed a punch; tabouleh was light and lemony; and salty grilled halloumi added to a great mix of strong, fresh flavours. We were rather taken aback to discover there was no fuul (a bit like a fish and chip shop having no fish), but the manager got the kitchen to rustle us up a basic version. Helpful service and great food, then. We just wish Hiba would reinstate those vital elements of the Lebanese dining ritual: bread and veg.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009