Restaurants

Politicos are prominent among the Atrium’s suited lunchtime clientele, as attested by the magazine rack headed ‘Political Intelligence Served Here’. As restaurants go, it’s something of a curiosity: set in the sunken central atrium of a large complex that comes complete with health club. You dine many floors below a soaring glass ceiling, bathed in natural light and surrounded by small offices rented by media companies. The menu is a mixed bag of brasserie-style dishes, which, when it came to the chewy starter of Thai chicken patty with sweet chilli dressing, seemed to sacrifice subtlety for convenience. Much better is the more lovingly prepared traditional fare such as roast duck with braised savoy cabbage, pancetta and sage jus, or ribeye steak with pont neuf potatoes. Nothing here will wow you with originality, but it’s serviceable enough, albeit with a two-course set lunch at a not inconsequential £17.95. Officially the restaurant is open till 11pm, but evenings are so quiet that it can close early; best phone ahead to check.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009