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© Tricia de Courcy Ling
By Jenni Muir
Someone has been reading too many copies of Country Living. Hessian napkins tied with raffia, wobbly cream crockery designed by Sophie Conran – is this really the sort of frippery people want in a pub? To be fair, we are in Fulham, and if the decor has been inspired by the style bible ‘for people whose heart is in the country’ (ie, most of them live in zones four, five or six on the tube map), then so has the pub itself. West Londoners who scoot down the M4 to the Pot Kiln in Yattendon, Berkshire, have been so vocal in their praise for Mike Robinson’s gastropub that they’ve persuaded him to open a similar place in the capital. Traffic must be bad.
But the Harwood Arms is not a solo venture. Like a 1960s rock supergroup, sometime TV chef Robinson, who is a specialist in game, has joined with Brett Graham of Notting Hill’s excellent Ledbury restaurant, and Edwin Vaux, a publican and fellow hunter. Neither Robinson nor Graham mans the kitchens: head chef is Ledbury graduate Stephen Williams. But the Robinson stamp is apparent, not only in the quantity of game on the menu but the fact that he shoots all the deer himself on estates near Hungerford and Henley. For once the claim of ‘seasonal, local and natural produce’ is fully realised.
Our bread ‘basket’ looked like a skullcap lost from the wardrobe department of ‘Robin Hood’. Within it hid a few scraps of bread the Sheriff of Nottingham’s prisoners would have scowled at, but from there things quickly improved. Smoked trout with leeks vinaigrette arrived looking prettier than half a fat, boiled leek has any right to be, daubed with salad cream (not Heinz) and scattered with tiny crisp croutons and wild sorrel. The signature venison T-bone was superb with the nutty crunch of black cabbage (cavolo nero), but didn’t need its thin mushroom ketchup, let alone one in a dinky individual bottle (enough with the poncey styling, boys, please). Because we didn’t fill up on bread, there was still room for Bramley apple doughnuts with spiced sugar – and they were every bit as good as you’d hope.
We’re satisfied the owners haven’t forgotten this is a pub – Black Sheep bitter and Ruddles County plus a guest ale (Good Old Boy from the West Berkshire Brewery, say) are on draught; our concern is the locals who think the Harwood Arms is a wine bar. Even the party of broad-shouldered Sebastians and Henrys who came in only ordered halves as an aperitif. Will they have the support from customers to keep the ales in good condition? We hope so. Minus a raffia bow or two, this is a terrific place.
Time Out London Issue 1998: December 4-10
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We enjoyed an excellent evening out at this pub, though it was marred somewhat by a braying mass of sloaney clones who took over the bar area and proceed to make so much noise we could bare hear ourselves think. The group essentially killed any ambiance or atmosphere the pub had, which was a real shame. Between the braying shouts of laughter and the constant parade in twos and threes to the facilities, drinks in hand, not to mention the ladies in varying shades of orange & brown taking over the already small sink area to reapply their faces and gossip rudely, they really put a downer on the evening.
Having said that though, it was no real fault of the establishment, and the other elements of the evening were superb! Both the food and service were excellent, not to mention a well-written and good size wine list. Very impressive.
All the entrees were superb, except the salmon and broken eggs which lacked flavour. It was exactly what was described, yet it lacked a certain something. We kept waiting for the flavour to kick in.....and were left disappointed, particularly as a fellow diner exclaimed the snails were the best they'd ever eaten. Quite a call for someone from France!
A more adventurous type in the group went for the special of chopped trotters and ears on toast. Taking 'Nose to Tail' dining to extreme levels, what should have been quite gross actually turned out to be delicious, and even the fussiest eater in our group tried a bit of ear.
The mains were definitely a highlight,with four chosing to share the shoulder of deer, one going for mutton and the other rabbit. Game on. And they were all delicous. Portions were generous.... overly so. The shoulder of deer was advertised for two, but could easily have fed four each, so there was plenty left over, even after we all sampled it.
Having said that, despite the fact we were stuffed to the gills, we ended up with dessert. The service was well timed, with enough time left between courses to allow this breathing room, and it was well worth it. The highlight was probably the bramley apple donuts, steaming hot parcels of apple and sugar that made the eyes roll back in the head. The Caledonian Ice was a nice change, with a sprinking of toasted oat and a hint of whisky shaking things up a bit. The Earl Grey ice cream was a real slow burner, odd at first, with the flavour developing slowly and a light, citrusy after-taste left lingering. Very pleasant and quite surprising.
So, apart from the hideously behaved bar crowd (the poor couple next to us had their date ruined by the din and the crowd volume) the whole experience was well worth it and excellent value. Much better than a Gordon Ramsey gastro-pub - by a country mile!!!! We're definitely going back.
Had eaten at the Ledbury and thoroughly enjoyed so thought I'd give this a go. Michellin quality food at posh pub prices. Fantastic, friendly service and some of the best food I've tased in the capital. Try the venison scotch eggs!!!
Have eaten here just once and really enjoyed the experience and the food. We arrived early.12 noon and were dealt with well. The pigeon tea was wonderful as was the scotch egg which was a revelation. Loved it. Main course for me was venison. Beautiful. Would go back for more when in town.
Had a beautiful meal here with a large family group, food was amazing (and that included my veggie dishes) and the services spot on. For dessert when we were all very full they brought us tasters of all the different sweets, a perfect end to a perfect meal.
Looks like a pub, feels like a pub - good start.
Young, friendly, very helpful staff.
Food certainly not your standard fare.
Extemely interesting rage of dishes all superbly cooked.
Look out for the pigeon tea- trust me, a real revalation.
It is a pub with a pub atmosphere. It has no pretentions to be a resaurant. What do people expect? As they say "it does what it says on a tin"
My wife and I have visited the Harwood Arms both on our own and also with family and friends. We all agree that this is a great place to eat. Interesting and well cooked seasonal food served in a vibrant and relaxed atmosphere by a staff who care. Do try the specials as well as menu staples. The venison Scotch eggs are a legend in their own time as are the doughnuts filled with what ever is in season. Then their is game of many different types - try the game tea if it's on and of course the venison. Just wish we were not so far from home!
We've eaten here a few times and really enjoyed the food each time. We have had a couple of oddly brusque experiences, but generally service is good. Food is excellent. Plates are misguided novelty affairs that are distracting and obtrusive. 'Chef Ramsey' would smash them and so should the Harwood Arms.
A serious warning: the parking restrictions in the area make it entirely impossible to park before 20:00! It's a point that the HA would do well to remind patrons booking early, as it's quite unique (and a nice source of revenue for a cynical local council).
Having written a less than happy review the first time I visited the Harwood Arms at the beginning of May I am pleased to be able to return to this site to write a much happier one. At the invitation of The Harwood Arms I returned at the end of May with my two daughters where we had the most divine dining experience. Yes of course we were given very special attention and generosity but none of this would have counted a jot were it not for the most exquisite food and delicious wines that we were fortunate enough to consume. The table next to us ate the same main course and it was out of this world. The food is in a completely diffferent category from any other I have eaten but it is not prissy or mucked about. It's the finest ingredients cooked by a genius. We had a fabulous time and will return on my next foray up to the big smoke from the seaside where I live.
I still do have slight concerns about noise levels commented on by other reviewers. On my second visit the pub was serene and we also had a table tucked away as far from the bar as possible. The pub was mostly full of diners whilst we were there and they were not inclined to shout at each other while they ate. Would an upstairs dining area be a welcome addition? however, do go and do eat the most sublime food ever!
Comment on this reader review
Helene Webber - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Sunday, May 31, 2009
We had a horrible dining experience at this so-called gastro-pub. Although there is a secluded dining room and although we had booked weeks in advance, we were not seated in the dining-room but at a table in the middle of a crowded and very noisy bar with drinkers standing all around us, jostling us and making a huge amount of noise. We were totally ignored by the staff and were only given menus after asking and after a long delay. After we had been waiting for over half an hour with no service of any kind the owner, Mike Robinson, breezed in with a party of friends and was served immediately.
When we pointed out to Mike Robinson that we had been waiting for over an hour for service and that our table was unsuitable, uncomfortable and very noisy we were rudely told "this is a pub - what do you expect". After waiting in this horrible environment with no food for an hour and a half, we left. We will never go back. The Harwood Arms is a disgrace.
booked a table several weeks in advance for a special occasion. Staff knew of this but on arrival we were sat in the centre of a large, heaving extremely noisy bar. We could not hear ourselves speak. We spoke of our distress to Mike Robinson who gave a metaphorical shrug of his shoulders. One hour and fifteen minutes later with no sign of any food we left.