Restaurants

By Jenni Muir

Since the 1980s this site has seen a lacklustre procession of not-very-successful restaurants and bars. The fact that the logo, decor and display of groceries at this latest inhabitant make it look like a stand from a trade exhibition could prompt you to just keep walking (as we did, a few times). But if you don't mind the corporate vibe, the food here is very good.

Ibérica's menu is overseen by Nacho Manzano, a high-profile chef who runs Casa Marcial, a Michelin-starred family restaurant in the Asturian Mountains. Also boasting an impressive CV is head chef Santiago Guerrero, who has journeyed from just across the Euston Road, from the L'Albufera Spanish restaurant in the Melia White House Hotel.

The tapas list takes in everything from simple plates of cheese to hot stews and rice dishes. Pinchos, olives, bread and the like start at £1.50 – but if hungry, you could also put together a fairly extravagant spread that took in a £20 plate of Teruel, Recebo and Guijuelo hams.

Inky black rice with cuttlefish and prawns was utterly delicious with fresh, tender chunks of seafood and a gloriously creamy pool of aioli to sit alongside or be stirred in as pleased. Simple grilled chorizo marinated in red Rioja and creamy, soft ham croquettes also had us swooning, easily diverting attention from a dish rather pretentiously titled ‘cheese in textures with celery and quince’, which we didn’t finish.

Service on our most recent visit was a little too keen and staff pushed us to order quickly, yet on another occasion it was frustratingly slow. Still, this is a useful find; Ibérica could be here much longer than its predecessors.

Time Out London Issue 2004: January 15-21 2009