Restaurants

By Elena Berton

Neighbourhood Italian restaurants attempt to conjure up faux rusticity and homespun touches – but not when they open in Shoreditch, where nothing short of trend-setting decor will do. At newcomer Lena, the vivid white eighteenth-century-meets-late-1960s look seems to have been nicked from the final scenes of ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’, with sepia-toned pictures and a suitably dark basement bar thrown in the mix.

The cooking, on the other hand, is firmly rooted in trattoria style, but with an upmarket feel and an eye kept firmly on sleek presentation. For example, focaccia squares arrive arranged on chunky, dark-wood chopping boards, while the accompanying Tuscan olive oil had a striking verdant hue as well as a pleasant grassy tang.

Some dishes, such as a starter of Sardinian flatbread layered with a medley of Mediterranean vegetables and goat’s cheese, feel too designer-ish and contrived, but others mostly hit the spot with well chosen combinations of seasonal ingredients. Highlights include beef fillet with
porcini mushrooms, pears and parmesan shavings, as well as fettuccine dressed with a wintry, comforting sauce made with sausage, radicchio and almonds.

Sleek presentation aside, portions are generous, leaving little room for manoeuvre when it comes to choosing from the rather conventional dessert list. In this case, a glassful of affogato (vanilla ice-cream topped with espresso) with a few biscotti to dunk over the usual tiramisu and panna cotta.

Lena’s cool ambience, polished cooking and smooth service have already proved popular with Shoreditch trendies. But it’s best to call for reservations instead of relying on the glossy website, which allowed us to book a table (later confirmed with a text message) on a day when the restaurant was closed.

Time Out London Issue 2005: January 22-28 2009