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The Brill
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© Michael Franke
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By Guy Dimond
It must have been Colonel Mustard, in the dining room, with the rope. We know because we saw him there next to the crime scene, dining in his tweeds, whiskers and wry smile, as three successive waitresses dropped their orders on the floor.
First: the clatter of cutlery right next to us. Twenty minutes later: a jug of water splashed right across the corridor. And, just as we getting ready to leave, someone’s dinner hit the floor.
We never caught him at it, so maybe the real reason was that the staff were new, and the floor very shiny; and no matter, as everyone present seemed to take these clumsy mishaps in their stride. The warm smile never waned from the face of our charming Romanian waitress, and the diners – broadsheet-reading types visiting the Big Smoke, mostly– certainly didn’t flinch. Perhaps it was the caff-like interior paired with the stiff upper lip cooking that ensured that everyone would Keep Calm and Carry On.
The menu's equally no-fuss. Pork belly, although slow-roasted, isn't disintegrating in the way that some versions can be; this one's a solid block of prime pork, set on a sauce of creamed leeks, but with a moat of cider sauce and roasted apple on the side. Simply cooked fish is a strength of the kitchen: maybe pan-fried sardines as a starter, or a special of sea bass with some mediterranean vegetables. Good produce, simply prepared.
Two courses cost £13.50, three courses £16, though choosing the day's specials bust that budget. For example, a starter of fried cod cheeks was dense, flavourful flesh, served on a green pea mash with a creamy tartare sauce, for six quid (starters are normally four).
The prices are very fair, so how do they do it for so little? By not being too fancy, that’s how. For example, a starter described as 'crispy torn duck leg, smoked bacon and black pudding salad' was mostly green salad, with the scraps of the meats garnishing the arrangement; the slivers of black pudding were bloody and moist.
Pudding is as British as the BBC or talking about the weather, and the desserts here do them proud. Spotted dick was agreeably savoury and not too sweet, with lashings of hot custard. Baked cream pudding with a sugar crust was a toothsome, British version of that French poodle of a dessert, crème brûlée.
The Brill wasn't entirely brill. A few things that could be improved – the 'freshly baked bread' (£2) resembled shop-bought baguette, and the choice of three bottled beers didn’t include one true Brit. No wonder most diners were sticking to the wine – you can have a glass of Chapel Down’s Bacchus, all the way from sunny Kent, for a mere fiver a glass (slightly sweet, floral and grapey, in case you’re wondering). And the view through the shop windows of the King’s Cross end of Caledonian Road isn’t perhaps the finest aspect of London you'll find. But for decent British grub at a fair price, Brill fits the bill.Time Out London Issue 2014: March 26-April 1 2009
Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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Details
- 6-8 Caledonian Road, King's Cross, N1 9DT
- Area: King's Cross
- Tel: 020 7833 7797
- Category: British
- Travel: King's Cross tube/rail
- Times: 7am-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 9am-5pm Sun
- Price: Meal for two with wine and service: around £60
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anna1970
I am a fun loving, caring, person who enjoys, walking in hyde park, running, going to theatre, cinema, galleries, eating out and travelling
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I was disappointed by The Brill. The service was great, really attentive, but although the menu sounded wonderful the food did not live up to the promise. The food was cold and arrived in fits and starts. I like a rested steak, but I don't want to chips and garnish to wait around 'relaxing' with it. My rare steak was medium and when I sent it back the replacement was 80% fat and only 20% steak - which was a shame because what I could eat was tasty, albeit still with cold chips (maybe this is a new trend that I'm unaware of?). The char grilling also filled the restaurant with smoke. Could do better.
Two friends and I went on a Thursday night. As Time Out says, the Brill isn't entirely brill, but we didn't complain as the food was fine and the prices for both food and wine were very very reasonable. The staff were attentive but I think they may also have been manning the takeaway section next door? We were seated at 7pm and at that time there were only a handful of other diners seated with us. The atmosphere only really started picking up later, from around 8pm onwards when some larger-number groups arrived. I felt the canteen-style dining area really needed a bustling atmosphere to work otherwise it was all a bit too quiet for my liking. All in all I would consider going again - maybe in a couple of months when, hopefully, their popularity will have grown and they have a few more diners through the door.
A group of 5 of us ate dinner at the Brill on a Tuesday night. It was recommended through a friend. What a great little restaurant. We were really impressed with the friednliness of the staff serving us. All of them were smiling when we arrived and the service they provided was excellent, to the extent that i felt like i was in a much more expensive restauarnt. Believe me i have had much worse service in much more expensive restaurants. The food was really enjoyable, they have a set price which is really good value for money. I had the crap to start with whilst my firends had smoke mackeral and the ham hock loaf. My crap was delicious, really fresh. All my friends plates were polished off so i can only assume they enjoyed there's as well.
We all had the ribeye steak for mains which was cooked just how i like it, the chips were really good and the tarragon mayonaise finished off the dish well.
All in all it was great experience and i'll be going back for sure.
I am not sure if they were just having an off day at the brill. This was my 1st time visiting and have to say was very dissapointed. My colleague and I went for lunch, my food was not that warm and tasted dry. The potatoes were flavourless with my roast slice as though they had been cooked a while and been re heated. My colleague had the burger with chips, the chips were a bit on the small side portion size for that price and there was some sweet potato in the burger(thats what we think it was)! Surley that is not the british way to serve it...is it?
The service was slow which caused us to be late back to work.
Will we visit again, not sure!
Just eaten a take-away roast beef sarnie with yorkshire pud, a carrot and roast spud all for £4.50. Very tasty, will go back for more soon!
excellent atomosphere, great food, what value for money. Its was my 2nd time at the brill, I especially love the crab starter it went down well with the champayne. Hats of to the chef, who is bubbly and to the rest of the kichen staff (brilliant)
Went for the 2nd time last night. Excellent food - great value for money. Intimate venue where the staff make you feel special -which is a rarity these days. I have every intention of visiting the brill at least once a month.
Forgot to rate it with the stars so have done now!!!
I visited the brill on Friday just gone for lunch, I have had takeaways but thought nice to sit in with my work friend. I was on my lunch hour so time was key and have to say the waiter we had was efficient and had the food to our table in 15 minutes. The food is cooked to order which I like and you can see the chefs at work on the other side when I do go for a take away. I had the brill burger and my friend had the roast slice of the day which was beef. I enjoyed mine very much and would recomend anyone in the area to try it! Nice to have a bit of choice!!
What a lovely little find, me and a friend stumbled across the brill late one night and decided to have a bite to eat before we travelled home, the food is nicely priced and tasty and the staff are brilliant (the managers very tasty too) very friendly and warm. We had a bottle of english wine which was surprisingly good. The decor needs some help but overall the Brill is honest and friendly, keep up the good work.