Restaurants

By Fiona McAuslan

Victoria Park ‘village’ is as richly dappled with gastropubs as the nearby park is currently dappled with daffodils. The Britannia, on the northern edge of the park itself is the latest pub to burst into bloom.

Formerly a dilapidated chain pub, a stylish makeover has restored the building’s Victorian glory days with vintage red, white and blue stage curtains, portraits of bygone monarchs, two clearly defined seating and lounging areas, and a dining area filled with pale wood Windsor chairs and junk shop water vases.

It’s in the dining area that the Britannia really sets itself apart, styled as a bistro, but with traditional English dishes well prepared. A potted hare with tomato chutney and toast made a meaty starter, but it was the succulent Sussex pork belly with moist black pudding, well above usual gastropub standard, that won the starters round.
The bar is usually stocked with at least two British cask ales (Spitfire, say, or Sharp’s Doom Bar from Cornwall) that rotate seasonally; plus a range of Meantime bottled beers, as well as Weston’s and Addlestone’s ciders.

Owner Andrew Maillard (formerly of Soho’s Alphabet bar) has put together an affordable wine list with plenty available by the glass. You can even buy bought-in-bulk wines to take away – just bring your own vessel and you’re charged by quantity.
Mains lived up to our whetted appetites with a Torbay sole perfectly roasted and served in a buttery lemon sauce with brown shrimps. Six hours in the oven imparted tenderness and a rich sweetness to the braised ox cheeks served with celeriac mash.

The only slight disappointment was the dessert, where a rhubarb trifle was a touch too sharp for our sweet tooth; but an elegant parcel of roast apples in filo pastry made up for this. Good food in comfortable surroundings with a nod to hip, but none to pretension: we think The Britannia has the makings of a perennial favourite.

Time Out London Issue 2015: April 2-8 2009