Restaurants

Perhaps the ideal modern London bistro, Penk’s is also a strong candidate for the smallest restaurant façade. Its tiny ex-shopfront leads to a long bar facing one line of two-seater tables, which opens into a slightly bigger space and a conservatory at the back. Any thoughts of claustrophobia are dispelled by the unflustered, friendly atmosphere and excellent food. Dishes are imaginative, but with no cheap tricks; ingredients are first rate. A game terrine was rich and meaty, offset by tangy chutney and pecan and raisin toast. Roast red and golden beetroot with goat’s cheese croutons and mixed leaves was a great variation on the salad norm. Being able to turn out standards with no hint of routine is a good test for a restaurant, and Penk’s minute steak with red wine and shallots didn’t disappoint: the meat just so, the sauce smooth and satisfying. Sea bream, the day’s grilled fish, came with tunisian roast veg, couscous and a sparky dressing featuring anchovy, capers and caraway. The menu offers many alternatives, including sandwiches and brunch faves. Even the house wines are above average. A highly enjoyable asset to the area. As we went to press, a revamp of the decor and menu was on the cards.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008