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Abingdon
There aren’t quite as many eateries on Abingdon Road as there are shiny four-wheel drives, but it’s a close call. In spite of newer openings, Abingdon’s popularity seems undiminished. Outside, it resembles a regular gastropub, but the inside houses a drinking space and two distinct dining areas: one well-groomed in toning taupes, the other with high-backed red booths. The menu avoids the usual gastropub dishes, offering vignettes of Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and continental food, promising bold flavours. Most are successful. Beetroot gazpacho, with a swirl of olive oil and vivid-green avocado and apple floating in the centre looked psychedelic, but the flavours were just right. Also good was pan-seared yellow-fin tuna with grilled octopus, spiced lentil salad and yoghurt (the tuna rare, the octopus tender). Roast Devon lamb with aubergine and almond skordalia missed a beat or two, with slightly overcooked lamb, and a lack of garlic in the sauce. A starter of cumin-breaded goat’s cheese with caramelised chicory was devoid of the advertised cumin and came with too many dull salad leaves. The wine list is short but has good selections, particularly from South Africa and France. Prices reflect the chi-chi neighbourhood.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
Services:
Booking: Booking essential
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome: high chairs
Outdoor tables: 4, pavement
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