Restaurants

There was something amiss at Frocks on our recent visit. For a restaurant known for its loyal local fans, and queues down the street on weekend mornings, it was eerily quiet at 9pm on a Saturday. The set-up is pleasantly laid-back, with friendly service and a down-to-earth feel (quirky quotes painted on walls; diners propping their feet up on chairs). However, the barely audible background music did little to detract from the clinking cutlery and whispered conversations of the nine other diners. Starters proved a mixed bag: our gnocchi was good, but the asparagus served with poached egg and hollandaise was tough and vinegary. Mains courses show strong bistro and gastropub influences. We tried the slow-cooked pork belly (meltingly tender but no crunch) and cod served with mussels (firm, flaky fish with a flavoursome sauce). By the time we tucked into our trio of crèmes brûlées, staff were tidying up around us (it was only 11pm), so we turned our attention to the lively Empress of India across the road. Could it be that Frocks is having trouble keeping up with the competition?

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008