Restaurants

By Guy Dimond

We've not always been overwhelmed by the food coming from the kitchen of this Balham gastropub, but the overall atmosphere and beautifully refurbished building make up for it. What impresses more, however, is the huge garden with its own menu, served from the summer barbecue. On our visit, this includes a piping-hot skewer of lamb souvlaki served on a round pitta bread, with a Greek-style salad and bowl of tsatsiki; the meat was nicely charred and not too fatty. The bap filled with shoulder of Middle White pork was also sensational. The salads being devoured at the table next to us almost had us ready to renounce the flesh: both the tabbouleh version and the caesar looked great. Table service makes this a very civilised affair; this is more of a jug of Pimm’s (£16) joint than a packet of crisps and lager kind of place.

Time Out London June 2009