Restaurants

From the ivy-covered exterior to the charmingly professional service – via some downright comical painted ‘windows’ depicting classic Mediterranean scenes – Daphne is an unapologetically old-school affair. And its crowd of loyal regulars (loud groups of Greek men sharing bottles of whiskey and mezédes; gossipy Camden mums on first-name terms with the waiters) clearly approve. The place is rammed from 8.30pm every night (though closed Sundays). A blackboard menu is presented with a flourish to the table. It covers all the classics and our waiter was keen to point out that everything was fresh, not frozen. So-so melitzanosaláta (aubergine purée) proved a disappointing start, though a dish of coarsely textured, garlicky houmous was excellent. Mains of chargilled king prawns and swordfish were simply prepared and delicious. Prices are rather high (£14.50 for the swordfish), though when we ordered a third dish of greek salad our waiter immediately offered to include it as a side with the fish. It’s all about the service at Daphne.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009