Restaurants

By Veronica Simpson

Andreas Bajohra was born in south Germany, but spent 20 years working in London as a photographer before fulfilling his desire to bring really good, continental breads and pastries to the public. Having set up his ovens a while back to serve farm shops and markets, this brand new shop and café gives him a chance to demonstrate a quality café, north European style.

A full-height shop window allows you to see the many breads, from baguettes to authentic sourdough, plus a picturesque cake selection. Huge, pale wood refectory-style tables at the back invite you to stay. Slate covered walls declare the day’s specials in coloured chalk. A daily changing lunch offer reflects what’s in season, with fresh soups, quiches and salads, plus succulent sandwiches (such as fresh ciabatta with serrano ham and quince jelly), and all for under a fiver.

A proper, German style 'Frühstück' is in the pipeline: platters of cheese or meats giving good value for breakfast or brunch. The caff’s licensed, too, with a half-dozen wines less than £15 a bottle, plus German and Italian lagers or organic ale from Cornwall. Big storm lanterns with flickering candles add warmth on a wintry day, and a bamboo-filled patio will double the dining space in the summer.

It’s not that East Dulwich needs another café, but Bajohra and his team – a Dutch architect, a French head chef and an Austrian pastry chef – successfully recreate a continental experience.

Time Out London Issue 2003: January 8-14 2009