Restaurants

By Charmaine Mok

There’s something brewing in London town and it isn’t another branch of Starbucks. The new coffee movement has seen London’s brewster scene mushroom with a spate of recent openings from Antipodeans and Brits alike (check out our recent blog on this trend). Independently owned cafés and coffee bars are popping up in stark defiance to the existing soulless chains out there – and it couldn’t be better encapsulated than in this new Brit- and Aussie-run café, which describes itself as a ‘British coffee shop’ and its bold motto is: ‘We don’t do Grande’.

Ginger & White’s unashamed patriotism is a refreshing change from the other excellent coffee shops around the capital, which have mainly tooted the Aussie or Kiwi horn. The food is conscientiously sourced from local suppliers – the menu namechecks Wick’s Manor Farm (smoked ham), England Preserves (jam, natch) and Northfield Farm (for its melting salt beef), while the butter is a creamy Somerset creation and the coffee roasted beans are from Square Mile.

A jazzed-up print of the Union Jack is proudly displayed on the wall, above the large, handsome communal wood table where the coiffed denizens of Hampstead were enjoying their brews.

The coffee on our visit wasn’t without fault – the flat white was a little bubbly, the mocha overly sweetened – but our smoked ham, cheddar and ‘beer mustard mayo’ on a rosemary and potato sourdough was delectable, and all the better for being freshly toasted. That classic British teatime treat, a wodge of Victoria sponge, was a moist, springy rendition with lashings of thick, sweet cream and perfectly ripe strawberries. It’s all a bit on the pricey side (over £4 for a sandwich) but that’s almost expected in this affluent area.

Its location (neatly tucked into a quiet side street), welcoming staff and all the right cosy touches (a small alcove with leather sofas and armchairs; colouring pencils and markers for young ’uns, newspapers and magazines for the grown-ups; free water in rustic jugs) make this one a keeper. Cor blimey, guv– a good British coffee shop, and one as British as bully beef. Who’d have thought it?

Time Out London Issue 2037: September3-9 2009