Restaurants

By Katrina Kollegaeva

A yoghurt drink is part of almost any Turkish meal, but you know you are in for something special when the thick and salty ayran is poured out of a spout in front of you into icy-cold jugs, and it arrives with a foam no cappuccino can beat.

'Hala’ is a relatively new addition to Green Lanes, but even on Sunday evening this Turkish café was heaving with families and couples on dates. The two women in the window making gözleme – melt-in-your-mouth pancakes with fillings – were drawing the crowds in, but it’s the attentive staff and huge portions of own-made fare that makes them want to return.

The chef of the day was from Gaziantep, the region in the south-east of Turkey that’s prized for its clever use of flavourful spices and soothing yoghurts.

The dishes reflected the Gaziantep touch. Pungent red pepper could be tasted in the tomato dip served with fresh griddled bread, and in the juicy minced lamb Adana kebab. Tangy yoghurt appeared in a refreshing soup of yayla with rice and mint, and as a garlicky sauce topping the south-eastern speciality of manti. Manti are boiled dumplings filled with mince – a satisfying dish, if a little doughy. Aubergine stuffed with tomatoes and peppers (imam bayildi) came chilled, but was bursting with flavours.

The standard crowd-pleasers surprised with the quality of meat: the pieces of lamb in the crispy pizza-like pide were juicy and subtle, the beef and lamb in the Hala mixed grill were tender and well marinated. ‘Hala’ means ‘aunt’ in Turkish, and indeed the place is so much more than a fast-food eaterie serving late-night Londoners – just like a faithful auntie, it is warm, jolly, and is always happy to welcome you back.

Time Out London Issue 2036: August 27 - Sept 2 2009