Restaurants

By Euan Ferguson

Alfie’s resides in the Bermondsey Square Hotel in a regenerated area just off Tower Bridge Road. Bermondsey Square itself is a curious mix of handsome Victorian heritage and privately owned ‘public’ space.

The name is a reference to the filmic London anti-hero of 1966, clearly aiming to associate with Michael Caine’s cheeky, cool and cocky British character.

Inside, the ’60s vibe doesn’t get much further than the name: the only thing swinging about the decor is an Eero Aarnio-style hanging ball chair. The rest of it is very slick, in a hotel restaurant sort of way.

The menu confirms the determinedly British approach. There’s ham and eggs, coronation prawns, bubble and squeak. The service is definitely British, too – we were brought bread and some butter, but waited a good ten minutes for knives with which to unite them.

Our starter of a ham hock terrine with sauce gribiche and sourdough was a promising beginning – correctly served at room temperature, the punchy pink meat combined with fresh herbs to good effect.

A main course mixed grill with watercress was as meaty and traditionally British a dish as you’ll find – liver, sausage, bacon and steak, with a grilled mushroom and tomato for variation.

Another main of hot smoked salmon with crab mash was almost there, but the generous chunk of fish was overpowered by a too-sweet glaze, and the mash was a bit dry.

We avoided the treacle tart with Ambrosia custard because, well, we could open a tin at home if we wanted Ambrosia custard.

So we opted for the chocolate pudding with vanilla ice-cream, although we were dogged by a niggling thought – if they advertise buying in their custard, will the pud have come in a tin too? Our tasting did nothing to convince us otherwise. So I politely asked a waitress if she wouldn’t mind checking with the chef about what kind of chocolate they put in it. She returned a couple of minutes later. ‘Snickers,’ came the reply.

Average food, average service, a sarky chef and a £70 bill. What’s it all about, Alfie?

Time Out London Issue No 2037: September 3-9 2009