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Boho Mexica
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© Ming Tang-Evans
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By Guy Dimond
Mexican food is a fiesta. Quite why we see so little of it in London is anyone’s guess; only a handful of places attempt to do it justice. But Boho Mexica is the latest example of that rare but growing breed that really does try to recreate the tastes of Mexico, instead of taking the simpler option of peddling burritos.
Boho Mexica isn’t in a prime location, and the small frontage on trafficky Commercial Street is easy to miss. But climb the steps up to the bar at the entrance, and you get a more favourable impression from your bar stool perch. The staff are all smiles; two of the meseras (waitresses) could be Frieda Kahlo’s sisters. The look and music of this little cantina evokes an earlier era. The bar counter is papered with facsimiles of Mexican newspapers from the 1950s; sepia images of Mexico City’s landmarks merge with those of London’s skyline on the walls. It’s a good-looking place, and already busy with a cool young crowd of Spitalfields creatives.
Mexican food is based around corn (ie maize), beans, more corn, and chillies crafted into innumerable variations. The kitchen here recreates some regional specialities of Mexico in the tapas-sized portions that Mexicans call ‘antojitos’, such as the small tortillas the size of drinks coasters which come with various fillings.
Chef Tia Patty (‘Aunt Patty’) is from Tabasco, and her cooking is quite sophisticated for a small kitchen. One of the day’s specials was sopes, which are small fried corn-dough bowls, filled with beans and in this case topped with chicken, braised pork or mushrooms with sautéed mild chillies. Masa, or maize flour, is also fashioned into tacos such as the fish-filled versions you find in Veracruz on the Gulf coast, though in this case they use sautéed sea bass. Coarser corn meal can be cooked as corn mash (polenta), then served with bacon-thin strips of grilled pork tenderloin.
Mexicans love corn so much that it’s served here as a dessert, as corn-on-the-cob buttered with mayonnaise, lime, grated cheese and a touch of chilli; tender and appealing. If you have a sweet tooth, you may prefer the day’s special they call Copa Nevada (‘snow-capped cup’), which resembles a cold lemon-and-vanilla meringue pie without a crust but with extra whipped egg white , lightly dusted with cinnamon powder.
There are four flavours of Margarita on offer on the cocktail list. A few bottles of quality sipping tequilas stand high on a shelf, though these don’t appear on the drinks list. Wine is served in tumblers, which might look chic, but throttles any aroma the wines might have. Most other customers seemed to be necking bottled beers.
The drinks list might not match the excitement of the menu, but Boho Mexica is a slick, Mexican-run operation, with food that’s far superior to London’s Tex-Mex norm. And it doesn’t need sombreros or tequila slammers to put a little more ¡arriba! into your life.Time Out London Issue 2038: September 10-16 2009
Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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Details
- 151-153 Commercial Street, Shoreditch, E1 6BJ
- Area: Shoreditch
- Tel: 020 7377 8418
- www.bohomexica.co.uk
- Category: Mexican & Tex-Mex
- Travel: Liverpool St tube/rail
- Times: Noon-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm Mon, Tue; noon-2.30pm, 5.30-11pm Wed-Sat
- Price: Meal for two with wine and service: around £55
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NZ_Guy
I'm a kind-hearted, gentle guy who loves music, art, films, books, surfing, travelling and exploring London by day and night.
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Boho Mexica is not what it says! The food (or lack thereof) is tasty. But that is where the good news ends! Service is terrible, completely devoid of common sense, slow and are unwilling to listen to customers. We went expecting lunch and had a 'sandwich' but ended up going across the road the Tesco for more food! Prices are expensive for what it is (£5 per quarter of a baguette). VERY DISSAPOINTING.
Boho Mexica is yet another disappointment in the attempt to bring Mexican food to London. As noted in the review, the atmosphere is cool, and I'd actually credit it points for its location between Spitalfields and Shoreditch. The food totally misses the mark and is disappointing. They should double the size and prices and make dishes worth coming back for. Tapas and Mexican food rarely work together. The Spanish do tapas; Mexicans do not. I don't want to be served three bite sized tacos with a small scoop of chicken mush in each or guacamole worthy of ten chips. I don't know why London Mexican restaurants can't copy successful formulas like any number of Mexican restaurants in NYC like Rosa Mexicana. As for Boho Mexica, that's just the food. The service was even worse...
I thinks they've got a few bits still to work on, the range of drinks & how to serve them and communication between staff are two of them. But when it comes to the food, they are spot on. I am very grateful for their authentic and delicious range of tacos, the empanadas are heavenly light and the mole sauce strikes an excellent balance between chocolate and chilli. The perfectly marinated meats leave you wanting more and it's all priced reasonably. I'll go back.
Go here without hesitation for an alternative night out with mates. We booked a table for 6 and the food was incredible, great music too and the atmostphere keeps you wanting more cocktails and beers that keep coming from the highly efficient staff..a bustling and refreshing night out!
I've been here twice now and both times were brilliant. Am going back tonight with a large group of friends as I want them to see how much of a gem this place is. Would definitely recommend it to anyone, really friendly staff and delicious food and drink that's refreshingly original- there's clearly been a lot of time and effort spent on making sure everything adds to the experience. Viva boho!
have been here a few times and absolutely love this place. was never a fan of mexican food before but i am now a total convert. all the food is delicious, as are the drinks and lest we forget the waiting staff!
overall a great addition to the shoreditch area.
I have been here a couple of times with my partner and colleagues and we love it! (in fact I’m going back tomorrow too!)
Great food - such a nice change to the traditional stodgy fare you get in most apparently "Mexican" places.. Yes don’t go expecting massive portions but then it is tapas!
I loved the sauces - especially the spicy green stuff and the salad dressing was to die for! Also the corn thing (on the desert menu) was really nice… my boyfriend liked the guacamole so much he ordered 4 of them!
Blueberry cocktails were amazing… definitely worth trying this place!
We visited Mexica Boho and have to say it was a real dissapointment. The portion sizes were a joke. The La Polllera the 'mexican sandwich' was actually just a bland chicken sandwich served in a baguette. (A baguette!?) The staff were enthusiastic although as there seemed to be five wait staff for eight tables they often confused each other and orders got take to other tables. It was a great atmosphere though and perfect decor.
My partner and I ate here on Friday night and we love, love, loved it. We're normally not terriibly adventurous, usually opting for a safe option (Gaucho), but we weren't disappointed. All of the Tacos and are amazing. We particulary enjoyed Cochinita Pibil Yucatán, and Bistec a la Mexicana. It's literally a meat feast, and definately not bland. A must for anyone who is a fan of various, highly flavoured morsels.
We ordered 8 dishes, 2 beers, 1 glass of wine and 4 margaritas and the bill came to £80. Admittedly the wine was dreadful and we had to leave it- definately to be avoided. They could also do with installing a real coffee machine. When we asked for coffee we were offered instant, and decided on another cocktail instead!
Unlike James, I though the Puerco la Jamaica was quite tasty. I guess the chef has his good and bad days.
However, the potion sizes are a bit of a joke. It was about a third of the size of what it should have been, considering the price.
My companion tried a selection of tapas. He found them slightly bland and said he'd done better himself.