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Barrica
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By Guy Dimond
Goodge Street is already a centre of excellence for Spanish food and wine, with Fino and (Ibero-Italian) Salt Yard just paces apart. This hasn’t deterred Barrica’s owner, Tim Luther – a wine importer for Albion Wine Shippers – from opening up against such stiff competition.
Much thought has gone into compiling the concise, carefully chosen all-Spanish wine list. The emphasis is on food-friendly styles, from dry fino and manzanilla sherries (the drink of choice in tapas bars in Spain) to trendy white grape varieties such as Albariño and the seldom-seen Godello.
Highlights from among the red wines are bottles from Bierzo and Valdeorras in northwest Spain, although there’s plenty of Rioja for traditionalists as well as a few cavas and some excellent Spanish brandies, which are always worth a try.
Chef James Knight used to work at Moro – known for its innovative Moorish-Spanish cooking – yet the tapas menu here is relatively orthodox. It plucks classic dishes from across Spain’s many regions, which the Spanish-speaking staff are happy to talk you through.
Top billing (literally) goes to the cured meats, with a plate of jamón ibérico de bellota at £14. Cut to the thickness of pencil shavings, this cured pata negra ham had concentrated flavour, and was curiously gamy – ours tasted like South African biltong.
In contrast, deep-fried sweetbreads and globe artichoke had mild farmyard flavours, but quite appealing textures. Cheeks of monkfish were poached and served in a ‘salsa verde’ sauce which was nothing of the sort, but was the slithery texture of a Chinese sweetcorn and chicken soup.
Back on more familiar territory are dishes such as char-grilled baby leeks with romesco sauce, and Padrón peppers – deep-fried and salted they’re delish, but be warned that one in ten retains a fierce spiciness that brings tears to the eyes.
For pudding, we had tarta santiago, a dense almond cake.
Furnished with wooden furniture and lots of bare surfaces, Barrica’s not the place for a quiet meal; a party of giggling women at the next table virtually drowned out our own conversation. But if you like great Spanish wines and good food, add this one to your hit-list.
Time Out London November 2009
Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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Details
- 62 Goodge St, Fitzrovia, W1T 4NE
- Area: Fitzrovia
- Tel: 020 7436 9448
- www.barrica.co.uk
- Category: Spanish
- Travel: Goodge St tube
- Times: Noon-10.30pm Mon-Sat
- Price: Meal for two with wine and service: around £65
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I love Barrica!!
I have been several time since the opening and I just love it! GREAT service, great wines, excellent food.
Definitely a must.
Very nice staff, very nice atmosphere BUT honestly the taste of the tapas are just average. If you have been to Cafe del Parc or Moro you will find this restaurant rather disappointing.
Have been to Barrica twice since it opened and it has been excellent both times! The wine list is amazing and I found it charming that the owner helped me pick out my first glass.
The food is of extremely high quality and cooked to perfection. There is a large range of dishes and while some are unconventional, they are amazing! Props to the chef.
The atmosphere was great and the service is excellent, I would reccomend this to anyone. Definitely going back soon!
I visited Barrica with my wife and four friends - one one of our seldom seen, precious nights out. It was an exciting place to be with delicious food. It made us all realise quite how long we've waited in Lodon for quality tapas with the added bonus a wine list to match. What Nobu did for Sushi all those years ago, Barrica has just achieved for tapas - but releived to say without the price tag! - Breaded Pig’s Trotter is a must.
What a delight, really authentic, beautifully cooked Spanish tapas combined with a great selection of quality wines. Really reasonable prices considering the quality. Great vibe, could very easily become my local.
I cant find fault. This place was buzzy, fun and very friendly. The tapas was superb, in fact I think I can say one of the best I have had in London. The wine menu was too big for me but that is because I am no wineconnoisseur , but they tell you which wine goes with which food, which I loved!!
Service was brilliant. Go I will be taking more friends.
I have been to Barrica twice since it opened and have to say its excellent! The wine list is incredible and I found it charming that the owner helped me pick out my first glass.
The food is top quality and although some dishes are unconventional they are amazing! There is such a large range of dishes which are all prepared perfectly, props to the chef!
I love the decor, the service was great and I will definitely be going back :)
Had a brilliant evening here. The food was brilliant, probably the best Tapas I've had in London and the choice and quality of wines was excellent. I'll defenitely be back with more friends soon.
This place is amazing!!! i highly recomend it for its Top Food, Top Wine and the top quality service offered from the staff from the floor to the bar... 10 out of 10...
Unfortunately we were served by a particularly rude member of staff which made the experience less than enjoyable.
However, great food and wine available if a little lacking in atmosphere.