Restaurants

By Charmaine Mok

Kam Tong is a branch of the much-lauded Kiasu in Queensway (winner of the Time Out Best Cheap Eats Award in 2007), and many of the dishes have made the leap from Bayswater to Chinatown by way of the Straits, with a few diversions (Vietnamese pho is conspicuous by its inclusion).

Hot, flaky roti prata (the thicker and fluffier Singaporean version of Malaysian roti canai, an unleavened flatbread) was deliciously buttery and had a proper chewiness, while the accompanying curry had a good kick.

Likewise, kari ikan (literally ‘curry fish’) loaded with aubergine, tomatoes and okra was pleasantly spiced.

However, char kway teow was bland (not a patch on that of its sister establishment, then), and Nyonya laksa was one-dimensional – too much coconut and lacking the complexity of flavour normally associated with a great laksa.

The £10 minimum charge per person is a bit of a dampener, but you’ll still end up with a feast for not much money.

Time Out London Issue 2047: November 12-18 2009