Restaurants

By Ben McFarland

Located just sarf of the river on Albert Bridge Road, opposite the Albert Gate exit of Battersea Park – probably why the pub is called The Prince Albert.

What’s it like? Much like the male genital piercing with which it shares its name, The Prince Albert delivers a pleasurable experience but I doubt it’ll make your eyes water with joy. Then again, how many pubs do? It flexes the whole brushed up, boutique gastropub thing with swift service and standard style – its walls encumbered with modern canvas art and illuminated stag heads.

A plusher eating area resides at one end of a main room dominated by an oval bar, there’s a decent beer garden/smoking area out the back and, upstairs, the Bridge Room is a grandiose, well-windowed function room with dog-themed wallpaper.

There are beer pumps a-plenty decanting the likes of Bitburger, Adnams Regatta, Licher Weizen, Wandle and Westons Scrumpy. They also do more than two dozen wines by the glass, 15 by the bottle and a bloody good bloody Mary.

The Sunday menu showcased ample roasts, a Fenman’s brunch (like a Ploughman’s but with ham) and courgette-and-wild-mushroom crumble. Desserts celebrate puddings of the past with banana split and Eton mess.

There are lots of board games in the corner and discreetly placed TVs showing live sports. Given the gentrified area, the locals are haughty but nice: plenty of pink shirts and A&F, sporty types and people off the park with canine companions.

Overheard at the bar: ‘Those who give up smoking are not heroes. The heroes are the rest of us who have to listen to them.’

Time Out London Issue 2045: October 29-November 4 2009