Restaurants

Tamarinds large basement interior (from 1995, with a gilding and bronzing refurb a few years ago that brought a distinctly nouveau riche feel) is now looking scuffed, but a lily still lies beneath. Chef Alfred Prasad produces North and South Indian dishes that are consistently excellent, and clearly play to the kitchens strengths. A North Indian gosht dum biriani is topped with a pastry lid which releases the dishs aromas when lifted; the generous amounts of lamb within were tender, the rice distinct grains with fresh, clear spice flavours. The South Indian prawn chettinad had a thick, dark-brown gravy with intense flavours of toasted spices. Even something as simple as tarka dal is sublime. Not all dishes are as classic though; the tandoor oven is used creatively for dishes such as paneer tikka or grilled chunks of kingfish: both light dishes cooked with well-matched marinades. Although prices are high this is Mayfair, after all we didnt grudge paying for the excellent cooking and friendly, attentive service. Another refurb restoring the clean, simpler looks of the original Emily Todhunter design wouldnt go amiss, but otherwise we couldnt find fault with Tamarind.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008