Restaurants

Alfred Prasad has maintained Tamarind in the top rank of Indian restaurants since taking over the cheffing from Atul Kochhar in 2002. Behind an unassuming frontage, this capacious basement has a grandiose demeanour, helped by burnished gold pillars and walls, polished wooden flooring and equally polished (if slightly overbearing) service. Pity that the refurb a few years back robbed diners of a view into the kitchen. Prasad relies on innovative spicing, expert presentation and a lightness of touch to make his mark; most dishes are based on classic North Indian cuisine. A special two-for-one deal on the summer tasting menu was hard to resist (consult the website for such bargains). To this we added two dishes: a seafood salad starter (a tired, fridge-cold assembly), and baingan bharta (a wonderfully smoky aubergine mush). From the tasting menu, rich dhal makhani and luxurious saag paneer were exemplary, and a simple chicken curry sang of fowl and fenugreek. Most original were the appetisers, including a salmon fish cake heavily laced with kaffir lime leaves, and a salad of black-eyed beans with cantaloupe melon. Fruit sorbet made a fitting finale to a lunch that was competently rendered, if a little short on sparkle.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009