Restaurants

When Madhus had a makeover in 2003, some regulars worried that style might take precedence over good food. The place may be sparklier now, all gleaming glass panels and granite tiles, but the cooking remains among Southalls best. Service is sleek, from the greeting by a charming sari-clad hostess, to waiting staff who remained attentive throughout a terrific early-evening rush. A side of mango chutney judiciously flecked with chilli was devoured by a three-year-old in our party; grown-up tasters found it just sweet enough, just feisty enough. Main dishes were similarly well-spiced. One of the most popular is lamb ribs cooked nyama choma-style (roasted over an open fire; popular throughout Kenya, where Madhus owners, the Anand family, originated); the ribs were superbly seasoned, lemony, salty and slightly smoky. A juicy chicken curry on the bone machuzi kuku is another Indian-African special and was rich in taste though thin in texture, with garlic and ginger notes ringing out through the tomato-based sauce. Aloo tikki (potato patties) were a triumph too: fluffy potato given a tang from pomegranate-seed powder and tamarind sauce, the spiciness offset by yoghurt. To conclude: theres as much substance as style here.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008