Restaurants

Gleaming glass panels, glossy black tiles and crisp table linen set the scene for upmarket dining at Southall’s smartest restaurant. Although the dishes are mainly North Indian, the owners (the Anand family) introduce an African twist in menu specialities that reflect their own Indo-Kenyan heritage. The most distinctive of these is nyama choma – smoky lamb ribs, much-loved for their lemony zing. On this occasion, we opted for northern Indian stalwarts, with mixed results. Deep-fried mini patties of grated paneer, pounded peas and chopped fenugreek had a tangy tease of peppery flavour that worked well with the sweetness of tamarind chutney. Portions are sizeable and there’s enough for two people in a single starter. Main courses were disappointing. Chicken curry simmered with slivers of bitter gourd was let down by an oily, ginger-laden masala that overpowered the astringent gourd. The same spice base appeared in the chickpea curry: another downer. Breads were excellent but an exception, almost everything else fell short of expectation. Service, although well meaning, needs to be more confident and less obsequious. We’ve had much better meals at Madhu’s in the past.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009