Restaurants

A former bank, this fine-dining restaurant capitalises on its exalted setting with sweeping drapes, a high ceiling and weighty antiques. The raised bar area has attractive low seating, which adds to the indulgent vibe. Zaika is popular with wealthy business folk on elastic expense accounts. Its also well-liked by well-off tourists who come here for social currency and a feast of adventurous pan-Indian dishes. A cheese-themed first course included tandoori paneer: notable for its fresh flavour, soft spongy texture, and smoky crust scented with toasted nigella seeds. Tandoori salmon was less pleasing, its overly sweet marinade overshadowing all other spicing. Spicy hariyali chicken curry (cooked in a masala of watercress, spinach and green chillies) may have been as verdant as a bowling green, but it cried out for more punchy chillies. A vegetarian thali rejuvenated our taste buds; choice morsels included a fiery whole-lentil dhal, and excellent spinach stir-fry tossed with toasted chillies and garlic. Breads are light and very moreish; theres even a nan flavoured with mushrooms and truffle oil. Service wasnt up to scratch on our visit. The team need to be more attentive and better acquainted with the well-chosen wine list.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008