Restaurants

The flagship restaurant of a seven-strong chain , pink-fronted Rasa Samudra is famed for its authentic Keralite seafood dishes and is frequented by the West Ends movers and shakers. Decor is homely: silk sari hangings, traditional wood carvings and religious artefacts. For a lighter, more modern vibe, head upstairs to the first floor. We began with crisp popadom-like snacks and a beguiling set of own-made pickles; perky lemony prawns is our current favourite. A first course of stir-fried prawns and tilapia strips honed the appetite with green chillies, golden-fried onions and a shower of curry leaves. An equally good prawn and green mango curry provided a soothing contrast, with a coconut milk-based sauce flecked through with sweet mango shreds. Sadly, varatha meen masala (fried king fish fillets doused in tomato masala) was let down by overcooked, leathery fish. Crab varuthathu (flash-fried crab pieces whooshed around a karahi with slit chillies, curry leaves and heaps of fried onions) was divine ditch the cutlery for this one. Charming service tempers any culinary shortfalls. Despite occasional glitches, the cooking remains true to its Keralite roots.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008