Restaurants

Walk past the showy eateries of Knightsbridge and into the homely basement that is O Fado. London’s oldest Portuguese restaurant is probably also its best. The look is authentic rather than tacky, with paintings and tiles of Portuguese landmarks providing the decoration. During our visit, authenticity was maintained with olives and bread arriving at table only fractionally after we did. Staff were friendly and informative – handy, given the lengthy menu and even longer wine list. We opted for the recommended starter of pastéis de bacalhau: light, salty salt cod fritters. Prices may seem steep for this cuisine, but mammoth portions for main courses and sides soften the blow. Both garlic-crusted trout, and veal in madeira sauce were rich and rewarding. We found space for a chocolate mousse that was noticeably own-made as it had a slightly gritty texture. A couple of the waiters double as fado musicians, and played intermittently through the evening. Our only niggle was with the dim lighting, which was lowered through the evening until it was hard to see the next table, let alone the way out.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008