Restaurants

A restaurant situated in the basement of a hotel has to fight for attention. Axis, the subterranean dining room of the grand and imposing One Aldwych hotel, benefits from its own entrance from the street, and another boasting, no less, a sweeping staircase in an airy atrium. The high ceilings of the dining room help reduce that basement feeling, and the new decor brings some texture and colour to what is essentially a large space with soaring columns. The menu is an appealing mix of British and European influences with some creative touches. Thus beautifully smoky eel is combined with super-thin slices of beetroot and a piece of cured pork belly in a starter, while main-course roast duck breast is served pink and comes with the liver, some honey-glazed onions and artfully arranged dandelion leaves. Presentation is good all round, including desserts of peanut and banana parfait, and a light and luxurious steamed treacle sponge. Tables are well-spaced and smartly set, making this a popular business venue. While the service is suitably professional, it manages to stay relaxed.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009