Axis

There’s a distinctly masculine, monied feel to the elegant dining room at Axis, located beneath the chic One Aldwych hotel. Its black leather chairs and linen-clad tables are, for the most part, occupied by sleekly besuited businessmen. A vast, Vorticist-style mural of New York’s skyscrapers overlooks proceedings. Thankfully, well-spaced tables mean that any talk of stocks and shares remains a lulling background buzz. Dim lighting and opulent displays of pink orchids soften the room’s contours and add a pleasingly intimate note. The menu, like the decor, is classic without being stuffy. Attention to detail is immaculate. Take the freshly cut fig and tiny cube of honeycomb that accompanied a smooth chicken liver parfait (which looked lovely and tasted even better). Tender lamb rump, served with unexpectedly delicious green tomatoes atop a garlicky, mint-infused pile of bulgar wheat, demonstrated the same flair. Sea bass from the menu’s extensive grill section was pleasant, if unremarkable – though wonderfully smooth mash and perfectly cooked green beans were beyond reproach. Service was attentive and consummately professional, without being chilly. Chocolate truffles and supremely light lemon petits fours ended the meal on a suitably indulgent note.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

Services:

Booking: Booking advisable
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome: high chairs
Disabled: toilet
Entertainment: jazz 8pm Tue, Wed
Function room: Restaurant available for hire
Takeaway service: Vegetarian menu (book in advance)

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