Restaurants

A gleaming window on to Southwark Cathedral and Borough Market, fish! continues to reel in a cultured crowd who like to know the provenance of their fish supper. All the glass and chrome makes the restaurant a bright place for lunch on a gloomy winter day, but a bit sweaty in warm weather. The routine hasn’t changed much since the (greatly diminished) chain first burst on to the scene. You choose from the list of fish of the day, the way you want it cooked and a sauce. We prefaced our choice with crisp Thai crab cakes served with sweet chilli sauce and a lot of rocket, plus a disappointingly watery fish soup. Organic grilled salmon steak and salsa verde, with a seasonal veg selection of pak choi, carrot and fennel, proved a great choice. As always, the battered (Icelandic) cod and chunky chips with mushy peas was a comforting plateful. Pleasantly not-too-sweet, date-filled sticky toffee pudding and good vanilla ice-cream signed off a decent but unremarkable meal served by friendly, unflurried staff.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009