Restaurants

Usually we are big fans of Brula. It is on a corner in upmarket St Margarets and, inside the small dining area, the stained glass windows, dark wood and drapes create an intimate, colourful feeling. There are photos of David Suchet as Poirot lunching genteelly in this room almost 20 years ago (it’s near Twickenham Studios) and, on weekdays, Brula can still feel refined. On a Saturday, though, it was a nearly unbearable box of sound: with the windows closed, the noise from the enthusiastic locals made it sometimes impossible to hear the waiters. The food was close to its normal high standard, though aspects of the cooking suggested the kitchen was under stress. Sorrel soup was served at a scalding temperature, too hot for any complexity of flavour to come through, while a good, thick slice of halibut was a little undercooked (admittedly, that’s preferable to overcooked) and duck confit was too salty. Only a rich and sweet foie gras with pineau jelly was at its best. You can buy wine in 50cl carafes, but be warned that you can pay the equivalent of almost £30 a bottle this way and still not see the label.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008