Restaurants

Kovalam is every inch the neighbourhood Indian, so the exotic, unusual-for-London menu comes as something of a surprise. Familiar staples such as dosas and vadai are joined by intriguing fish dishes from the Malabar coast, served at linen-covered tables in a long dining room with mirrored walls. There are numerous Anglo-Indian meat dishes for the less adventurous, but we can heartily recommend the fish: keralan fish curry was swimming with flavour yellow mustard, chilli, creamy coconut, curry leaves, green mango, ginger and lime, complementing a generous slice of Indian Ocean kingfish. However, idli sambar was more pedestrian the spongy rice-cakes were a little over-moist, making them tricky to dip into the well-spiced sambar sauce and coconut chutney. Still, a solid south Indian meal at a very fair price.

Time Out Cheap Eats in London Guide 2007