Restaurants

Compared to the heady days when it was the Michelin-starred darling of the Conran Restaurant empire and Chris Galvin ruled the stoves, Orrery was in danger of becoming no more than a pleasant but pricey corporate diner. D&D London subsequently installed a polished new service team and talented, ex-Mirabelle head chef, Igor Tymchyshyn. Now, once again, Orrery feels like a restaurant with something to prove. Every detail has been polished to a high gloss – even a request for tap water brings a handsome carafe carried to the table on a silver salver. Tymchyshyn’s food flies high, with simple-sounding dishes of asparagus with truffles, and smoked Scottish salmon, both dazzlingly presented. Just thinking about the work that has gone into a breast of truffled guinea fowl, presented with spring vegetables and a plug of boned thigh meat filled with a chicken and foie gras farce, could leave you too exhausted to eat it. Halibut fillet teamed with langoustine ravioli and morels also showed culinary skill. Regrettably, blips in timing left the halibut overcooked and the guinea fowl undercooked. Still, anyone that can make such a perfect prune and armagnac soufflé deserves the benefit of the doubt. Orrery’s 45-page wine list offers plenty to savour, including an extensive choice of riesling, pinot noir and sweet wines, plus a house carafe of the day.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009