Restaurants

Famed for its monthly changing regional menus, Chowki aims to showcase the diversity of Indian cooking styles with a selection of homely dishes. Its a brilliant idea and gives many enthusiasts their only taste of little-known regional cooking. Tourists and office groups arent put off by the slightly gloomy interior: Formica-topped tables, red leatherette stools and industrial piping. In past visits, weve enjoyed excellent meals here, but this year have witnessed a drop in standards. On our most recent visit we had hoped to experience the fiery chilli heat of Rajasthani cooking, but our supposedly red hot lamb curry was meek beyond redemption and had more in common with curry-house food. A Mangalorean coastal speciality of crisp-fried prawns, coated in crunchy rawa (semolina) made a pleasing snack, but needed strident spicing to make it memorable. Our spirits were lifted by a decent chicken curry made with a toasted peppercorn and fresh coconut masala (enlivened with astringent hits of pounded coriander seeds). Service is charming, and attempts to compensate for culinary shortcomings. Nevertheless, the experienced chef-proprietor Kuldeep Singh who runs a string of restaurants including Mela and 3 Monkeys needs to get Chowkis kitchen back on track. And quickly.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008