Restaurants

Although its mottled orange walls arent much to look at, this little outpost of northern Chinese cooking is well worth a visit. The simple, robust flavours of the region are mild compared to those of the spicy-hot western provinces, but no less interesting. Ask for the special menu to see for yourself. We started with grilled dumplings and a selection of cold starters. The dumplings were juicy and delicious, stuffed with seasoned pork, cabbage and ginger, and fried until crisp on one side. Smoked fish, jelly of pork with garlic and soy sauces and vegetarian goose (beancurd skin roll) were all commendable, and had a pleasing contrast of sweet, smoky, savoury and sour tastes with various textures. Chinese cabbage Shantung-style used rice vinegar to create a piquant sauce for the crunchy leaves, and was spiked with tiny, chewy cubes of salty Hunan ham and dried shrimp. Own-made noodles with soya beans noodles dressed with whole yellow beans and paste, small cubes of pork, pickled green beans and cucumber shreds was earthy and satisfying. North China is also famous for its excellent peking duck, prepared using only natural ingredients.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008