Restaurants

Kitsch and colourful ink paintings of horses and maidens decorate the walls in this old-fashioned but genuine Cantonese restaurant. We’ve long had a soft spot for Magic Wok, partially due to its generally kindly service, but also because it has for many years translated all its specials list (including several enticing and authentic Cantonese recipes) into English. However, ‘magic balls’, which promised so much in name, were bland: deep-fried threads of pastry surrounded a minced prawn filling that was overwhelmed by the heavy frying. Pastry-wrapped whole prawns were better, with high-quality seafood. Main courses are off the Anglo-Cantonese piste, and our choices were packed with flavour. We enjoyed some excellent water spinach with two types of preserved egg, the vegetables fresh, and flavour injected via thousand-year-old eggs, dried prawns and smoky mushrooms. A fried cutlet composed of salted fish and ground pork had the richness of the meat but the texture of a fish ball: an intriguing combination. Magic Wok serves a steady stream of locals (plus a fair few tourists) out for a quiet meal.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009