Restaurants

Choosing Mildreds means you wont be wanting for company the place is usually overflowing. You cant book, but staff do a good business keeping customers in drinks at the bar. The effervescent atmosphere and dense table spacing suggest you wouldnt want to come here for an intimate rendezvous, but as a venue for a boisterous group dinner it fits the bill. Vivid photos adorn the walls around a long narrow space, brightened by a central skylight. The menu incorporates ingredients and cooking styles from around the world; pear and blue cheese salad, artichoke crostini, and gyoza with mirin all feature as starters. Our red pepper and sweetcorn burrito was lifted by the addition of smoked cheddar, but we were less taken with a chickpea tagine overpowered by roasted fennel. The flatbread was great, though, especially when dipped in a side of chargrilled chilli aubergine. This being the Carnaby Street side of Soho, customers are mostly bright young things, marking Mildreds out as somewhere to go before a night on the tiles.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008