Restaurants

It’s not just the unusual angle of Walnut’s roadside façade that makes it stand out from its surroundings on chain-dominated West End Lane. With its stylish interior (including raised open kitchen), and cooking that uses fresh, quality ingredients, Walnut pitches itself as a superior alternative – and mostly succeeds. Beautifully presented starters included juicy seared scallops, and a wild mushroom filo parcel with crisp, delicate pastry and a rich filling. To follow, crispy pork (a daily special), was quite delicious, with cracking crackling, tender belly meat and vibrant apricot compote. Venison sausages were less impressive: intensely but overpoweringly meaty, and the accompanying mashed potato was dry, smothering the palate and obscuring the more subtle red wine and myrtle jus. A side order of garlic mash was similarly stodgy, and the chips delivered to our neighbours looked overcooked. On the plus side, there’s a decent if unspectacular wine list (we enjoyed a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet, an increasingly fashionable Languedoc white), and the enthusiastic staff were able to identify the provenance of ingredients when asked. The menu claims all food is locally sourced and organic ‘where appropriate’; considering the prices (side dishes cost £3-£4), it’s a surprise they don’t make more of this fact.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008