Restaurants

Fifth Floor’s new chef Jonas Karlsson has stuck to the concept of ladylike food to fit the feminine decor (sky-blue walls, cream leather seating, unusual tube lighting casting a glamorous glow). On a recent visit, though, we felt the subtle line between imaginative delicacy and fussiness – or even silliness – was occasionally breached. Was a rocket salad, tossed in vinaigrette by the waiter at the table, in a hollowed-out stilton, a clever modern homage to the spirit of flambé showmanship, or just plain daft? Scallops were melt-in-the-mouth tender, but apricot purée added little to the dish, and some creamy foam even less. Things were much more sensible for main courses. Beautifully cooked lamb was served in succulent slices on a small but densely flavoured patty of some of the best couscous ever: warmly spiced, with tart little morsels of apricot and veg. Rounded off with a piece of lamb’s tongue and a little roll of spinach, this was a great complete dish. Service was awry, however, with repeated enquiries into our well-being, food served too quickly, and wine kept in a cooler out of arm’s length and seldom refilled. The Harvey Nichols own-label wines are of sound quality, but diners who go further are in for a treat: the globe-hopping wine list is long and excellent.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008