Restaurants

To describe this as Balham’s best restaurant doesn’t do it justice. Lamberts is more than able to hold its own in any neighbourhood. It is run with mustard-keen enthusiasm and professionalism, which animates the plain mustard-coloured room. The focus is all on what matters most: excellent service, a helpful list of well-chosen wines at decent prices, and great dishes starring fine seasonal ingredients. Everything is own-made and nothing wasted, so bread (with farmhouse butter, a typically thoughtful detail) is an extra, but espresso cups of artichoke soup are automatically given. What followed was plate-lickingly good: steak and kidney pudding with cockle and parsley sauce as a starter; then intensely rewarding main courses of sea bass with masses of wild greens, heritage potatoes and a tangy gribiche-like salsa; and crispy-skinned guinea fowl with roast jerusalem artichokes and smoked bacon united by a tarragon-infused sauce. Only heavy-going, pastry-driven puds had feet of clay. Rhubarb was too resistant and ice-creams indistinguishable. But with nutty chocolate squares sweetening a bill that seemed very reasonable for such quality, Lamberts left an excellent lasting impression.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009