Restaurants

This is a great neighbourhood restaurant, and still Balhams finest. The muted taupe tones set the right mood; banquettes and booths provide some privacy for those that want it. The Aussie waiting staff are on the ball. And, most importantly, the kitchen uses good-quality local ingredients, turning them into Anglo-French-oriented dishes that look beautiful on the plate. A starter of Red Poll beef and Guinness pudding was perfect in every detail, from the suet pastry to the poached oyster on top. A whole squid was stuffed with black pudding, the richness of the filling contrasting with the firm texture of the squid. This year, the main courses were not quite as faultess as weve come to expect. A slice of crisp pork belly had crackling that was so tough it was barely edible but the meat below was perfect, and the pretty flower of julienned salsify and crubeens-like discs of stuffed fried trotter were a good match. Wood pigeon was perfectly dissected, cooked and presented, with a tangy watercress salad, but were not sure it needed the addition of dessert: a dollop of juniper ice-cream and a drizzle of raspberry reduction. But these are minor quibbles; we dont hesitate in recommending Lamberts.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008