Restaurants

When customers could still smoke inside, Niksons used at times to feel more like a bar than a restaurant. Now (at least in summer) the balance has shifted, and the affluent, loud, hard-puffing crowd is as much on the pavement as at the dark wood, circular bar. The small, civilised white room at the back has always been quieter, but there’s also a restaurant space on the other side of the bar, where you can enjoy some competent cooking. Service is relaxed but very attentive. We were steered towards decent yet unspectacular starters of linguine with chilli and garlic, and smoked halibut with lime and coriander. For mains, fillet steak was overwhelmed by peppercorns, but medallions of pork with crushed potatoes, apple and spring onions was far better: beautifully tender, well flavoured and faultlessly presented. Puddings manage to hit the heights (especially the sorbet selection), as well as covering more familiar ground with a workaday crème brûlée. The best thing about Niksons is its easy atmosphere: pleasant staff, enjoyable cooking, music on Sundays and a loyal, local crowd.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008