Restaurants

There is a certain ‘home makeover’ feel to this Surbiton eaterie, with its pale lilac walls, pine chairs, decorative vases and starched white tablecloths. Fortunately, the crisp, clean look is complemented by a warm, laid-back atmosphere. The menu is a mixture of French dishes and those with a Mediterranean touch. Deep-fried eggs seem to be the chef’s latest trick; there were a couple offered and they were indeed very good, with crisp breadcrumb crust and perfectly soft interior. We also enjoyed the meltingly tender suckling pig with apple mousseline and sweet confit onions, though it was rich enough to be a meal in itself. Sea bass with quinoa and scallop risotto was less exciting and the ‘tartare’ of vegetables lent little to the dish. Staff are attentive and check if customers are there for a special occasion, and made a thoughtful effort for the birthday party at the next table.Babies and children welcome: high chairs. Booking advisable; essential weekends.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009