Restaurants

If youre going to dine in the City, you may as well go the whole hog and dine in a bank. This particular temple of Mammon (deconsecrated) is a Grade II-listed building opposite the Old Lady of Threadneedle Street, made bright and welcoming by white walls, white table linen, big windows and Pietro Agostinis neoclassical domed skylights. Overseen by executive chef Herbert Berger, the food has won a Michelin star, which seemed merited at our high-end lunch in the swish brasserie section. The restaurant area to the side serves more expensive haute cuisine. After delicious, still-warm bread rolls, we chose seared pink salmon with thai aubergine caviar, and a sublime carpaccio of tuna with toasted sesame seeds (plus a balsamic sauce that criss-crossed the plate in a pretty weave of thin lines). Mains were fine poached salmon served with crushed new potatoes scented with caraway, and an immaculately cooked ribeye with chips. Most of the long, mainly French wine list is aimed at expense accounts, but the surprisingly lengthy choice of house wines will satisfy most needs for those on a more limited budget. Service is friendly and polished, and beneath the skylight is a dramatic, well-stocked circular bar.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008