Restaurants

Apologies if you can’t relate to this, but a trip to Sketch is like the rush of joy you might experience in a fantastic shoe shop or jeweller’s – an expensive one that’s unashamedly fun and ridiculously pretty. The media headlines that accompanied the opening in 2002 of this 18th-century ‘house’ of many facets and eateries (once owned by Christian Dior) judged the place to be outrageously priced and too pretentious by half. But the past few years have softened the edginess, leaving a warmly inviting den of glamour with just a touch of madness in the spice-bright decor and innovative menus. Any waywardness is tempered by the impeccably mannered staff and prices that tend to go downwards if they move at all. A new ‘gourmet rapide’ lunch can be served in an hour. On our visit, it featured a combination of four starters (you get all four), a choice of two main courses and three desserts (again, you get all three). Portions are quite dinky, but bread is good and plentiful. Wine can confidently be chosen, courtesy of a helpful collaboration between sommelier Frederic Brugues and wine guru Andrew Jefford. Of the starters, we loved the sweet earthy contrast of beetroot purée against the intense sea-saltiness of smoked haddock and shavings of dried white tuna. Main-course roasted flank of beef was bravely rare, chewy and primordial – but lovely, especially when matched against mashed potato enriched with olives, olive oil and confit duck leg. Desserts are amazing and also available to take away from the Parlour downstairs. Many Japanese eat here, including apprentice pastry chefs from London’s best cookery schools; Asian influences creep in to complement the light uplifting dishes. A spellbinding performance.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008