Restaurants

There have been significant improvements here since our last visit, but One-0-One still isn’t exactly packed to the gills – surprising, given its constantly busy locale. Staff have a new-found confidence to match the friendliness of old, and seem to have gained the knack of working as a team. The whole performance is smoother and more relaxing for the diner. The food has always been good. Focusing on fish and shellfish (particularly from the chilly waters of the Barents Sea and Norwegian fjords), menus highlight the provenance of dishes such as red king crab, traditional Breton fish soup with all the trimmings, and wild sea bass baked under an impressively crusty blanket of Guérand sea salt. There are only two meat dishes on the à la carte menu, one being roasted duck with the awesome accompaniments of peach and spring onion fricassee, vanilla mash parmentier and ginger bigarade sauce. Do the chefs want anyone to try it or not? A short but fairly priced lunch menu featured some lovely dishes; grilled scallop had been barely flashed across the griddle but arrived sweet and delicious in a creamy, well-seasoned cappuccino of jerusalem artichokes, ceps and truffle. Although on paper this was dissimilar to a main course of roasted salmon with lemon-chervil nage, the sauces were almost identical, the latter being sweet, creamy and very unlike any nage we’ve had before. Desserts are light, sound and greatly improved from a year ago.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008